The big wave

Riley got her surfboard ready for the biggest wave ever recorded in her state, She waited a few minutes, then saw a huge wave forming up out of the water riley took a deep breath and ran into the water. Riley got up on her board and began paddle the water with her hands, more and more closer she got to the wave that kept on rising above her. Riley immediately stopped paddling and turned around, she looked at the wave behind her it got closer and closer to her as she waited then the moment finally came. Riley began to lift off her board to stand up, she looked back again to see where the wave is again then she saw the wave right by her. The wave picked up Riley but she wasn't ready, Riley got lifted all the way up on top of wave, Riley lost her balance and fell backwards into the deep blue water.